Smart Home for Renters
Renting rules out about a fifth of the smart-home aisle and none of the good bits. Here is what fits without drilling, what needs a conversation, what leaves no marks, and what to leave on the shelf because it belongs to the building rather than to you.
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There is a persistent idea that a smart home is something you do to a house you own. It is mostly wrong. The modern category is built around devices that plug in, stick on, or screw into a light fitting — because manufacturers worked out that people who cannot call an electrician are a very large market. What renting really changes is the shopping list, not the ambition.
The useful way to think about it is a single question, asked before every purchase: when you move, does this come with you?If yes, buy it freely. If no, you are improving someone else’s asset with your own money.
What you can fit with no permission at all
This is most of it, and the list is longer than people expect.
- Smart plugs. The single best renter purchase. They turn lamps, fans, heaters and coffee machines into scheduled, voice-controlled, remotely switchable devices, and they cost very little. Nothing is modified; you unplug them on moving day.
- Smart bulbs. A bulb is a consumable, and swapping one is not an alteration by any reasonable reading. Keep the originals in a box and put them back when you leave.
- Speakers and hubs. They sit on a shelf. There is nothing to discuss.
- Plug-in cameras. Indoors, on a shelf or a stand, using an outlet. See our indoor camera picks for the local-storage options.
- Adhesive door and window sensors. The backbone of a DIY alarm, and they peel off cleanly.
- Battery sirens and keypads. Free-standing or adhesive-mounted, no wiring.
That list alone gets you lighting control, scheduling, voice control, remote monitoring and a working alarm — which is a genuinely complete smart home by any normal definition.
What needs a conversation
| Renter-safe? | The issue | |
|---|---|---|
| Smart plug, bulb, speaker, hub | Yes | Nothing is altered |
| Adhesive sensors, battery siren | Yes | Peel-and-stick, no holes |
| Plug-in indoor camera | Yes | Uses an outlet |
| Retrofit smart lock | Usually | Exterior and keys unchanged |
| Full deadbolt replacement | Ask first | Changes the landlord's lock |
| Wired video doorbell | Ask first | Building's low-voltage wiring |
| Smart thermostat | Ask first | Wired into the heating system |
| In-wall smart switches | Ask first | Mains electrical work |
| Drilled outdoor cameras | Ask first | Holes in the exterior |
The middle rows are where most of the interesting decisions live. A retrofit smart lockis the standout: it mounts on the inside of your existing deadbolt, the exterior stays exactly as it was, and the landlord’s key still works. That is a fundamentally different proposition from swapping the lock, and it is why the August is the lock we point renters at. Our August vs Level comparison covers both retrofit options.
For anything in the “ask first” column, the conversation goes better when you offer to keep the original hardware and refit it on the way out. Most landlords object to permanent change, not to improvement.
The three purchases we would actually make first
In order, for a rental, with reasons.
1. Lighting and appliances
Kasa Smart Plug Mini (EP25, 4-pack)
A four-pack covers a whole flat. Works with Alexa, Google and Apple Home, needs no hub, and turns existing lamps into scheduled lighting — including an away-from-home routine, which is worth more in a rental than any camera.
2. One indoor camera
TP-Link Tapo C120 (2K+)
Points at the entrance, records to a memory card rather than a subscription, sits on a shelf and moves with you. In a flat the front door is usually the only realistic entry route, so one camera does most of the work.
3. A retrofit lock, if the door is yours to fit
August Wi-Fi Smart Lock (4th gen)
Keeps your existing deadbolt, your keys and your landlord’s keys. Worth it mainly for access control — letting a friend or a cleaner in without cutting a key, and taking that access away again afterwards. Unscrews from the inside when you leave.
The heating problem, and the honest workaround
Heating is the one area where renting genuinely costs you something. A smart thermostat replaces a unit wired into the building’s heating system, which makes it a landlord decision, and in a flat with communal heating it may not be possible at all. That is a real loss, because thermostats are where the biggest energy savings in a smart home usually come from — the U.S. Department of Energy and ENERGY STAR both point to scheduled setbacks as the mechanism, and our thermostat savings guide covers what that actually means.
The workarounds are partial but real. Smart radiator valves control individual radiators without touching the boiler or its wiring. A smart plug on an electric heater gives you scheduling for a single room. And if you genuinely control the thermostat — some tenancies do — check for a C-wire before ordering anything, using our C-wire guide; a missing one is the most common install failure in the category and not something you want to discover with the faceplate already off.
The Wi-Fi caveat nobody mentions
A specific rental problem: if your building supplies the internet, or you are on a landlord’s router, you may not control the network settings that smart devices sometimes need — a 2.4GHz band you can see, or the ability to keep devices on the same network as your phone. Shared building networks in particular often isolate clients from each other, which breaks local device discovery entirely.
If that is your situation, the fix is your own router behind the supplied connection, which is usually permitted and is worth doing before you buy devices rather than after. Step one of our setup guidecovers the checks. It is also the reason to prefer devices that work locally — cameras that record to a card, hubs that run automations on the box — because they depend less on a network you do not administer.
The moving-out test, applied
Before any purchase, ask how long it would take to remove and what it would leave behind. Smart plugs: seconds, nothing. Bulbs: minutes, nothing, assuming you kept the originals. A retrofit lock: ten minutes with a screwdriver, and the original hardware never left the door. Adhesive sensors: a careful peel. A wired doorbell or a drilled floodlight camera: an afternoon, some holes, and an argument about the deposit.
Buy from the first list, negotiate on the second, and skip the third. Do that and a smart home in a rental is not a compromise — it is the same smart home, arranged so it belongs to you rather than to the building. Secure the accounts as you go, per CISA’s consumer guidance, and see our apartment security picks for the security side in detail.
Frequently asked questions
Can renters have a smart home?
Yes, and most of the category is well suited to it. Smart plugs, bulbs, speakers, hubs, plug-in cameras, adhesive sensors and retrofit locks all install without altering the property and remove without a trace. What renters generally cannot do is anything involving fixed wiring or holes: hardwired light switches, wired doorbells, in-wall thermostats and drilled outdoor cameras.
Can I install a smart lock in a rental?
A retrofit smart lock, usually yes. Retrofits like the August mount on the inside of your existing deadbolt, so the exterior hardware is unchanged, the landlord's key still works, and the whole thing unscrews when you leave. Replacing the deadbolt entirely changes a lock your landlord holds a key to, and you should ask first — many will agree if you keep the original hardware to refit on the way out.
Can renters use a smart thermostat?
Often not, and it is the one genuinely awkward category. A smart thermostat replaces a wall unit wired into the building's heating system, which is a landlord decision and sometimes a leaseholder one. In a flat with shared or communal heating it may not be possible at all. Smart radiator valves and plug-in heaters are the workaround, since neither touches fixed wiring.
Will smart home devices damage the walls?
Adhesive mounts are the only thing that touches a surface, and they are designed to release. Warm the pad gently with a hairdryer and pull slowly along the wall rather than away from it, and paint generally survives intact. Everything else — plugs, bulbs, speakers, hubs, plug-in cameras — leaves nothing behind because it was never attached to anything.
What smart home devices should renters avoid?
Anything that improves the property rather than your life in it: hardwired doorbells, floodlight cameras, in-wall switches and smart thermostats in a building you do not own. They cost you money, they stay when you leave, and several of them need permission you may not get. Buy things that unplug.
Sources
- Matter — Connectivity Standards Alliance — Official CSA overview of the Matter smart-home interoperability standard (accessed July 20, 2026)
- Securing the Internet of Things (IoT) — CISA — CISA consumer guidance on securing smart-home / IoT devices (accessed July 20, 2026)
- Smart Thermostats — ENERGY STAR — ENERGY STAR on certified smart thermostats and heating/cooling savings (accessed July 20, 2026)
Keep reading
Best apartment security systems
The security half of this guide, with the specific kits and picks that pass the moving-out test.
See the picksAugust vs Level
The two retrofit locks that keep your landlord's keys working, compared properly.
Compare the locksHow to set up a smart home
The seven-step sequence — and step one, checking the Wi-Fi, matters more in a rental with a supplied router.
Follow the stepsBest devices for beginners
The starter shortlist, most of which is renter-friendly by design.
See the starter picks